Rome Eat + Drink Guide

From Yolo Journal's "Our Rome Black Book 2.0" — cafes, restaurants, bars & aperitivo, with looked-up addresses. The Sun tag flags Sunday closures; the Open / closed column shows the weekly closing day. Click a header to sort; tap the heart to save favorites.

Open SunClosed SunLikely closed SunSun unverified

Sunday is flagged at left. Monday is the other big one for restaurants (the fish markets are closed Sunday, so many places shut Monday) — shown in the Open / closed column. Hours shift seasonally; call ahead.

Place Category Area Sun Open / closed Address Description
Gigi – Orient Express La MinervaRestaurantCentro StoricoPantheonOpen SunOpen dailyPiazza della Minerva 69, 00186 Roma (rooftop, Orient Express La Minerva)Rooftop restaurant atop the Orient Express La Minerva, a block from the Pantheon, with epic views over the Pantheon; the lobby bar is super sexy with low light. Great for lunch, dinner, or drinks.
La Matriciana dal 1870RestaurantMonti, Colosseo & EsquilinoTermini / Teatro dell'OperaOpen SunClosed Saturdays (open Sundays)Via del Viminale 44, 00184 RomaOne of the author's favorite restaurants — around since 1870, elegant, stellar food, kind owners. The go-to for amatriciana. Note: closed Saturdays but open Sundays.
RoccoRestaurantMonti, Colosseo & EsquilinoMontiClosed SunClosed SundaysVia Giovanni Lanza 93, 00184 RomaThey only cook whatever they find at the market that morning, so it's a small, thoughtful menu. Order dessert even if you're not a dessert person. Excellent wine list, very local crowd; open for lunch too.
NinoRestaurantTridente & Spanish StepsSpanish StepsClosed SunClosed SundaysVia Borgognona 11, 00187 RomaOne of the most beautiful dining rooms, with old-school waiters in white jackets and black bow ties (Dario has worked there 44 years). Loved for the ascé burro e salvia, polpette with pureed potatoes, and veal liver with onions.
Da Cesare al PellegrinoRestaurantCentro StoricoCampo de' FioriOpen SunClosed WednesdaysVia del Pellegrino 117, 00186 RomaA favorite for lunch (the lighting is very bright at dinner). Local and organic, thoughtful takes on classics, and interesting wines you'll be photographing the labels of.
Due LadroniRestaurantCentro StoricoPiazza NicosiaClosed SunClosed SundaysPiazza Nicosia 24, 00186 RomaExcellent for fish, on a pretty square — some compare it to Pierluigi but with less flash and a bit more intimate.
LaganaRestaurantCentro StoricoPantheonClosed SunClosed SundaysVia dell'Orso area (near the Pantheon), 00186 Roma — exact number unconfirmedGreat for lunch any season. Let them bring the endless antipasti (prosciutto, sauteed zucchini, celery with pecorino, the frittata), and save room for the pasta pomodoro — the author's favorite in the city.
Ristorante Pietro ValentiniRestaurantCentro StoricoPiazza NavonaClosed SunClosed SundaysVia dei Pianellari 19, 00186 RomaRun by Simona and her cook husband — simple and perfect; be friendly and she'll be your best friend by the end. Lunch and dinner. Closed on Sundays. Will make cacio e pepe with spaghetti if you ask for the original recipe.
ShiroyaRestaurantCentro StoricoCampo de' FioriOpen SunClosed MondaysVia dei Baullari 147A, 00186 RomaAn excellent Japanese restaurant near Campo de' Fiori with great sushi and cooked dishes; a favorite of Alessandro Michele.
La QuerciaRestaurantCentro StoricoPiazza FarneseOpen SunOpen dailyPiazza della Quercia 23, 00186 RomaA chic little neighborhood spot just off Piazza Farnese — consistently great and still relatively undiscovered by tourists.
Colline EmilianeRestaurantTrevi & BarberiniPiazza BarberiniOpen SunClosed MondaysVia degli Avignonesi 22, 00187 RomaA wintertime favorite for gnocco fritto and pasta fatto a mano (Emilian cooking).
EvangelistaRestaurantCentro StoricoGhetto / RegolaClosed SunClosed SundaysVia delle Zoccolette 11, 00186 RomaGo when it's artichoke season — famous for its smashed, fried carciofi.
Al PompiereRestaurantCentro StoricoJewish GhettoSun unverifiedClosing day unverified (sources conflict)Via di Santa Maria de' Calderari 38, 00186 RomaIn the Jewish Ghetto; since moving to street level it's easier to get a table. Get the baccalà, a pasta, and the 11-euro house white. Great for Sunday lunch with big local family tables.
PierluigiRestaurantCentro StoricoCampo de' FioriOpen SunOpen dailyPiazza de' Ricci 144, 00186 RomaThe most fun restaurant in town, and you go for the fish. In summer everyone sits out on Piazza de' Ricci for prime people-watching. Get the off-menu spaghetti alle vongole, the Catalana salad, and the fried calamaretti. Draws Roman families for Sunday lunch.
La Terrazza – Bulgari HotelBarCentro StoricoCampo MarzioOpen SunOpen dailyPiazza Augusto Imperatore 10, 00186 RomaThe rooftop bar and restaurant at the Bulgari Hotel — a divine rooftop bar with the best view at sunset, plus an epic Sunday brunch buffet with endless Ruinart Blanc de Blanc.
Checco er CarettiereRestaurantTrastevereOpen SunOpen daily (7 days)Via Benedetta 10, 00153 RomaA Trastevere favorite of Emily's — great for families, fun, bustling, noisy and delicious, with a great gelateria next door for dessert. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner.
Ristorante TiberinoRestaurantCentro StoricoIsola TiberinaOpen SunOpen dailyVia Ponte Quattro Capi 17-18, 00186 RomaA gourmet den on Isola Tiberina, a stone's throw from Trastevere, overlooking one of the prettiest squares in Rome. White-tablecloth trattoria tables, friendly service, everything seasonal. Lovely for Sunday lunch.
La CampanaRestaurantCentro StoricoPiazza NavonaOpen SunClosed MondaysVicolo della Campana 18, 00186 RomaThe oldest restaurant in the city (500 years) and rock-solid — the pastas, polpette, veal breast with potatoes, puntarelle, and a bitter-orange tart with dark-chocolate gelato. Good for Sunday/Monday when many places close.
FiammettaRestaurantCentro StoricoPiazza NavonaOpen SunOpen dailyPiazza Fiammetta 8, 00186 RomaRoman friends come for the pizza, but the pastas are great too. Open Sunday/Monday.
Al Vero Girarrosto ToscanoRestaurantTrevi & BarberiniVia VenetoSun unverifiedStatus uncertain — may have closed mid-2025; verifyVia Campania 29, 00187 RomaFor when you want a break from pasta — a Roman friend loves it for the tableside steak tartare.
È Passata La MorettaRestaurantCentro StoricoCampo de' FioriOpen SunOpen dailyVicolo della Moretta 6, 00186 Roma (off Via di Monserrato)On Via di Monserrato — a spot you'd walk right by, but the food is excellent and the crowd very local.
Da TeoRestaurantTrastevereClosed SunClosed SundaysPiazza dei Ponziani 7A, 00153 RomaAround the corner from Da Enzo (which always has a long line). Incredible, takes reservations, sometimes walk-in-able. Try the seppie e carciofi, carciofo alla Romana, puntarelle, and the pastas.
Da FrancescoRestaurantCentro StoricoPiazza NavonaOpen SunOpen dailyPiazza del Fico 29, 00186 RomaBest known for pizza but with a full menu; easy for families and groups, several floors and an outside area, near Piazza Navona.
Il CoralloRestaurantCentro StoricoPiazza NavonaOpen SunOpen dailyVia del Corallo 10, 00186 RomaNext to Da Francesco — great pizza and pastas, and apparently where the Gucci creatives go.
Settimio all'ArancioRestaurantCentro StoricoCampo MarzioClosed SunClosed Sundays (open Mondays)Via dell'Arancio 50, 00186 RomaOpen Mondays (not Sundays). Great selection of fish but also meat; loved for the insalata di baccalà and tonnarelli with sea bass and bottarga.
TullioRestaurantTrevi & BarberiniPiazza BarberiniClosed SunClosed Sundays (open Mondays)Via di San Nicola da Tolentino 26, 00187 RomaOpen Mondays (not Sundays). Incredible wood-fire oven and excellent grilled meats — especially the lamb — though everything is great.
Hostaria da PietroRestaurantTridente & Spanish StepsSpanish StepsClosed SunClosed Sundays (open Mon–Sat)Via di Gesù e Maria 18, 00187 RomaJust off Via del Babuino — excellent food, lovely interiors, an amusingly animated owner, and don't sleep on the desserts. Open Mon–Sat.
Santo PalatoRestaurantGreater RomeSan GiovanniOpen SunClosed MondaysPiazza Tarquinia 4a/b, 00183 RomaEmily's pick for amatriciana — ambitious and a bit far, but so good (San Giovanni area).
La MatricianellaRestaurantCentro StoricoCampo MarzioClosed SunClosed SundaysVia del Leone 4, 00186 RomaDelicious classic Roman trattoria (per Emily) near the Pantheon/Parliament — the owner can be a bit grumpy.
Da Gino al ParlamentoRestaurantCentro StoricoCampo MarzioClosed SunClosed SundaysVicolo Rosini 4, 00186 RomaOn a tiny alley in the Campo Marzio area — the author has had incredible cacio e pepe here. A classic political-class haunt.
Da Enzo al 29RestaurantTrastevereClosed SunClosed SundaysVia dei Vascellari 29, 00153 RomaBeloved Trastevere trattoria (expect a long line) — cited for excellent cacio e pepe and Roman classics.
Taverna TrilussaRestaurantTrastevereClosed SunClosed SundaysVia del Politeama 23/25, 00153 RomaA Trastevere institution cited for excellent cacio e pepe; pastas served in the pan.
PiperoRestaurantCentro StoricoCorso Vittorio / Chiesa NuovaClosed SunClosed SundaysCorso Vittorio Emanuele II 250, 00186 RomaA one-Michelin-star restaurant famous for the best carbonara and cacio e pepe (per Roberto and Anna).
La MontecarloRestaurantCentro StoricoPiazza NavonaOpen SunClosed MondaysVicolo Savelli 13, 00186 RomaA favorite for pizza of the author, Margherita, and Roberto/Anna; near Piazza Navona, sister to Baffetto.
Il Piccolo BucoRestaurantTrevi & BarberiniTrevi FountainOpen SunClosed MondaysVia del Lavatore 91, 00187 RomaA pizza pick from Roberto and Anna near the Trevi Fountain.
Ai MarmiRestaurantTrastevereOpen SunClosed WednesdaysViale di Trastevere 53, 00153 RomaA classic Trastevere pizzeria (the 'morgue' for its marble tables) — a favorite of frequent-visitor friends.
EmmaRestaurantCentro StoricoCampo de' FioriOpen SunOpen dailyVia del Monte della Farina 28/29, 00186 RomaA polished pizza spot near Campo de' Fiori (Marie-Louise's pick).
Filetti di Baccalà (Dar Filettaro)RestaurantCentro StoricoCampo de' FioriClosed SunClosed SundaysLargo dei Librari 88, 00186 RomaJust off Campo de' Fiori — the Roman version of fish and chips: fried salt cod fillets.
Ai PianiRestaurantGreater RomeParioliOpen SunClosed MondaysVia Francesco Denza 35, 00197 RomaOut of the way but worth it — a restaurant of a lifetime with excellent Italian cuisine (mostly seafood) in wood-paneled rooms (per Andrea).
Il San LorenzoRestaurantCentro StoricoCampo de' Fiori / RegolaClosed SunClosed SundaysVia dei Chiavari 4/5, 00186 RomaA refined fish/seafood restaurant (Roberto and Anna's pick).
Benito e GilbertoRestaurantPrati, Borgo & VaticanBorgo / VaticanClosed SunClosed Sundays & MondaysVia del Falco 19, 00193 RomaA tiny, well-loved seafood restaurant near the Vatican (Marie-Louise's pick).
Taverna dei Fori ImperialiRestaurantMonti, Colosseo & EsquilinoMontiOpen SunClosed TuesdaysVia della Madonna dei Monti 9, 00184 RomaA very good and still very local restaurant near the Colosseum (Emily's pick).
Alle CarretteRestaurantMonti, Colosseo & EsquilinoMontiOpen SunOpen dailyVia della Madonna dei Monti 95, 00184 RomaA Monti pizzeria — a great casual option near the Colosseum.
NakaiRestaurantPrati, Borgo & VaticanPrati / VaticanOpen SunClosed TuesdaysVia di Santa Maria alle Fornaci 14, 00165 RomaA great sushi spot minutes from St. Peter's that Emily called fantastic.
RomanèRestaurantPrati, Borgo & VaticanTrionfale / PratiSun unverifiedClosing day unverified (likely Tuesdays)Via Cipro 106, 00136 RomaAnna's recommendation near the Vatican — known for its meatballs and Roman comfort food.
Da MemmoRestaurantCentro StoricoPiazza NavonaClosed SunClosed SundaysVia dei Soldati 22-23, 00186 RomaNear Piazza Navona — cited for excellent pastas.
ReservaRestaurantCentro StoricoCampo de' FioriOpen SunOpen dailyVia del Pellegrino 163, 00186 RomaMargherita Cardelli's pick for grilled meats.
PanteraRestaurantGreater RomeGarbatellaOpen SunClosed Mondays (reopened Dec 2025)Circonvallazione Ostiense 153, 00154 RomaA hole-in-the-wall pizza spot in Garbatella that Emily calls absolutely incredible. Note: closed temporarily.
CresciRestaurantPrati, Borgo & VaticanPrati / VaticanOpen SunOpen daily (~7am–midnight)Via Alcide De Gasperi 11/17, 00165 RomaAn all-day-long spot from the oven near the Vatican — early-morning fresh bread, breakfast, lunch, aperitivo and dinner (Roberto's pick).
Caffè PortoghesiCafeCentro StoricoPantheon / PonteSun unverifiedClosing day unverifiedVia dei Portoghesi 7, 00186 RomaThe author's neighborhood spot — stand at the bar or sit under covered outdoor seating. The specialty is the te freddo (like an Arnold Palmer); also lovely for a simple, friendly aperitivo.
1956 Frattina CafeCafeTridente & Spanish StepsSpanish StepsSun unverifiedClosing day unverifiedVia Frattina 142, 00187 RomaTwo blocks off Piazza di Spagna but senza tourists — attracts locals, especially people who work in the area.
GiolittiCafeCentro StoricoPantheonOpen SunOpen dailyVia degli Uffici del Vicario 40, 00186 RomaGreat coffee and famous gelato, surprisingly uncrowded in the morning. Good ham/cheese toast and pastries; in the afternoon, spring for the Mont Blanc Piccolo.
La BuvetteCafeTridente & Spanish StepsSpanish StepsOpen SunOpen dailyVia Vittoria 44/47, 00187 RomaIn the heart of downtown — excellent tramezzini, croissants and cappuccinos, also good for a light lunch (Andrea's pick).
Retro BottegaCafeCentro StoricoPantheonOpen SunOpen daily (Mon dinner only)Via della Stelletta 4, 00186 RomaA delicious new-school coffee in a beautiful ceramic cup, plus avocado toast, homemade croissants, cinnamon rolls and cake. On a small street where you can sit outside; mostly locals in the morning.
Libera + SoonCafeCentro StoricoPiazza NavonaSun unverifiedClosing day unverifiedVia del Teatro Pace 41, 00186 RomaA cafe-meets-gallery drawing the cool Roman crowd (including a very famous designer). Perfect espresso in a vintage cup and great salads for lunch.
Bar San CalistoCafeTrastevereSun unverifiedClosing day unverified (mostly open daily)Piazza di San Calisto 3/4, 00153 RomaNo secret but charming — the opposite of the grand, pricey Caffè Greco. Cheap coffee in Trastevere; grab a 12-euro logo t-shirt to bring home.
Caffè GrecoCafeTridente & Spanish StepsSpanish StepsSun unverifiedCurrently closed amid legal/eviction dispute — verifyVia dei Condotti 86, 00187 RomaThe most gorgeous historic — and super expensive — cafe in town, on Via Condotti.
Roscioli BakeryCafeCentro StoricoCampo de' FioriOpen SunOpen dailyPiazza Benedetto Cairoli 16, 00186 Roma (Roscioli Caffè)A favorite of all the author's friends — 'a real Roman welcome in the city,' delicious if very crowded. The Caffè/Bar Roscioli is also a top maritozzo pick.
CanovaCafeTridente & Spanish StepsPiazza del PopoloOpen SunOpen dailyPiazza del Popolo 16, 00187 RomaOne of the two famous cafes on Piazza del Popolo — the right-wing choice, per Emily's joke about Roman politics.
RosatiCafeTridente & Spanish StepsPiazza del PopoloOpen SunOpen dailyPiazza del Popolo 5/5A, 00187 RomaOne of the two famous cafes on Piazza del Popolo — the left-wing choice, per Emily's joke.
Le LevainCafeTrastevereOpen SunOpen dailyVia Luigi Santini 22, 00153 Roma (new café at Via Piave 8)A bit of France in Rome — excellent croissants, pain au chocolat, quiche and the best madeleine in town. A new sit-down location opened on Via Piave (Roberto and Anna's pick).
Iginio MassariCafeCentro StoricoPiazza ColonnaOpen SunOpen dailyGalleria Alberto Sordi (Piazza Colonna), 00187 RomaMaybe the best pastry chef in Italy — the maritozzo and Christmas panettone are amazing.
Caffè DoriaCafeCentro StoricoPigna / Via del CorsoOpen SunClosed MondaysVia della Gatta 1/a, 00186 Roma (inside Palazzo Doria Pamphilj)Hidden in the courtyard of Palazzo Doria Pamphilj — Emily's tip to 'hide' here; also makes excellent cocktails.
Chiostro del Bramante Caffetteria BistroCafeCentro StoricoPiazza NavonaOpen SunOpen dailyVia Arco della Pace 5, 00186 Roma (inside the museum)Serves food and lovely drinks with a view into the Church of Santa Maria della Pace from the Hall of the Sibyls — you can look right into the Raphael fresco. Try the risotto at lunch.
HederaCafePrati, Borgo & VaticanBorgo / VaticanOpen SunOpen dailyBorgo Pio 179, 00193 RomaExcellent gelato near St. Peter's / the Vatican.
Er BarettoCafeMonti, Colosseo & EsquilinoMontiOpen SunOpen dailyVia del Boschetto 132, 00184 RomaA Monti spot for coffee, handy near the Colosseum.
Neve di LatteCafePrati, Borgo & VaticanPrati / FlaminioOpen SunOpen dailyVia Federico Cesi 1, 00193 Roma (Prati; also Flaminio: Via Luigi Poletti 6)Supposed to have the best-quality gelato in the city (per a local gelato-maker), with locations in Flaminio, Prati and Via Veneto. Less cute than Giolitti but the best.
FiordilunaCafeTrastevereOpen SunClosed MondaysVia della Lungaretta 96, 00153 RomaA gelato favorite of the author's in Trastevere.
Gelateria dei GracchiCafePrati, Borgo & VaticanPratiOpen SunOpen dailyVia dei Gracchi 272, 00193 RomaA top gelato pick (Roberto and Anna), in Prati.
Alberto PicaCafeCentro StoricoRegola / Campo de' FioriOpen SunOpen daily (Sun afternoon only)Via della Seggiola 12, 00186 RomaThe best gelato per Emily — try the ricotta with morello cherries.
Gelateria del TeatroCafeCentro StoricoPiazza NavonaOpen SunOpen dailyVia dei Coronari 65, 00186 RomaA gelato pick from Marie-Louise, near Via dei Coronari.
Grezzo Raw ChocolateCafeMonti, Colosseo & EsquilinoMonti / GhettoOpen SunOpen dailyVia Urbana 130, 00184 Roma (also Piazza Mattei 14)Andrea's pick — raw chocolate and gelato.
Supplì (Trastevere)CafeTrastevereClosed SunClosed SundaysVia di San Francesco a Ripa 137, 00153 RomaA beloved supplì window on Via di San Francesco a Ripa (Roberto and Anna's pick).
Forno Campo de' FioriCafeCentro StoricoCampo de' FioriClosed SunClosed SundaysPiazza Campo de' Fiori 22, 00186 RomaMargherita's supplì pick — the historic bakery on Campo de' Fiori, also famous for pizza bianca.
SupplizioCafeCentro StoricoCampo de' FioriClosed SunClosed SundaysVia dei Banchi Vecchi 143, 00186 RomaMarie-Louise's supplì pick — an elevated supplì shop on Via dei Banchi Vecchi.
RegoliCafeMonti, Colosseo & EsquilinoEsquilinoOpen SunClosed TuesdaysVia dello Statuto 60, 00185 RomaA historic Esquilino pasticceria — a top maritozzo pick (Roberto and Anna).
Hotel LocarnoBarTridente & Spanish StepsPiazza del PopoloClosed SunBar open Tue–Sat (closed Sun & Mon)Via della Penna 22, 00186 RomaOne of the prettiest spots in town for a drink — nothing better than sitting in the garden courtyard.
Hotel d'InghilterraBarTridente & Spanish StepsSpanish StepsOpen SunOpen dailyVia Bocca di Leone 14, 00187 RomaThe iconic 150-year-old hotel — a favorite in colder months for the cozy Caffè Romano Lounge Bar; the rooftop bar is lovely in warmer months.
Grand Hotel PlazaBarCentro StoricoVia del CorsoSun unverifiedClosing day unverifiedVia del Corso 126, 00186 RomaA great Mongiardino-designed interior bar plus terrace bars — completely caught in time; come for the untouched interiors, not the crowd (there isn't one).
Hotel MediterraneoBarMonti, Colosseo & EsquilinoTermini / EsquilinoSun unverifiedClosing day unverifiedVia Cavour 15, 00184 RomaFor a drink at the amazingly preserved Art Deco interior bar (the rooftop is nice too).
Hotel de RussieBarTridente & Spanish StepsPiazza del PopoloOpen SunOpen dailyVia del Babuino 9, 00187 RomaThe Stravinskij Bar in the legendary garden is a treat; the garden is also the prettiest spot for lunch or drinks if you want to splurge.
The CourtBarMonti, Colosseo & EsquilinoColosseumOpen SunOpen dailyVia Labicana 125, 00184 Roma (Palazzo Manfredi)At Palazzo Manfredi — the most beautiful view of the Colosseum.
Jerry Thomas SpeakeasyBarCentro StoricoCampo de' FioriClosed SunClosed Sundays & MondaysVicolo Cellini 30, 00186 RomaUsed to be a real password-only insider place; a bit less so now, but still fun to check out.
Salotto 42BarCentro StoricoPantheonOpen SunOpen dailyPiazza di Pietra 42, 00186 RomaNear the Pantheon, on Piazza di Pietra — excellent drinks, a favorite of the friends who run Roscioli.
La Punta Expendia de AgaveBarTrastevereOpen SunOpen dailyVia di Santa Cecilia 8, 00153 RomaAn agave bar in Trastevere — perfect while waiting for a table at Da Enzo al 29 if your friends only drink tequila and mezcal.
Jackie O'BarTrevi & BarberiniVia VenetoClosed SunClosed Sundays & MondaysVia Boncompagni 11, 00187 RomaA piano bar / cocktail lounge around since 1972 — the after-hours spot for the crowd that appreciates faded Roman glam over Ibiza beats.
Bar della PaceBarCentro StoricoPiazza NavonaOpen SunOpen dailyVia della Pace 3–5, 00186 RomaA chic destination cafe/bar/restaurant open all day near Piazza Navona — great for an all-day food and drink experience, a simple salad and chicken, or cocktails inside the air-conditioned, chic interior.
Caffè PerùBarCentro StoricoCampo de' FioriClosed SunClosed SundaysVia di Monserrato 46, 00186 RomaA favorite bar for a stand-up drink near Campo de' Fiori — a fantastic 5-euro Negroni, great toast sandwiches (the spicy salami), and a cheap sit-down lunch (spaghetti al limone, eggplant parm). Locals start the day here too; a lively scene out front.
L'Angolo DivinoBarCentro StoricoCampo de' FioriClosed SunClosed SundaysVia dei Balestrari 12, 00186 RomaA charming wine bar near Campo de' Fiori with a thoughtful edit.
Enoteca BucconeBarTridente & Spanish StepsPiazza del PopoloClosed SunClosed SundaysVia di Ripetta 19, 00186 RomaA wine bar near Piazza del Popolo that still feels super local — an excellent list of wines and champagnes by the glass with delicious snacks. A great casual lunch spot too.
Enoteca CorsiBarCentro StoricoPantheon / PignaClosed SunClosed SundaysVia del Gesù 87/88, 00186 RomaA lovely little wine bar near the Pantheon — best in the off-season, otherwise overcrowded with tourists (per Emily).
Achilli al ParlamentoBarCentro StoricoCampo MarzioClosed SunClosed SundaysVia dei Prefetti 15, 00186 RomaKnown for its Michelin-star restaurant behind the wine shop, but the author prefers the front outdoor cafe for aperitivo, a simple lunch, and the excellent wines by the glass.
VittiAperoCentro StoricoSan Lorenzo in LucinaOpen SunOpen dailyPiazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 33, 00186 RomaA top aperitivo spot on Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina — the author prefers it for the homemade potato chips. Also the place for a 4-euro shakerato (espresso shaken over ice) at the bar — a perfect jet-lag fix.
CiampiniAperoCentro StoricoSan Lorenzo in LucinaOpen SunOpen dailyPiazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina 29, 00186 RomaA classic Roman cafe great for aperitivo (paired with Vitti as the two top picks).
CamponeschiAperoCentro StoricoPiazza FarneseClosed SunClosed Sundays (dinner)Piazza Farnese 50/50A, 00186 RomaOn Piazza Farnese — a Roman crowd, a view onto the square, and excellent drinks. Friendly despite the big security guy at the door; be ready to sit inside if it's crowded.
L'Oratorio TrastevereAperoTrastevereSun unverifiedSeasonal (summer); open daily in seasonVicolo di Santa Maria in Cappella 6, 00153 RomaA seasonal bar (April–late Oct) outdoors in the courtyard of a church — a spritz or Negroni kind of place, not for complicated cocktails.